Chai by Any Other Name, or Day 56 in Delhi

So remember how yesterday was early at 7:30 or so?

Today was before the crack of dawn at 5:30. We were invited to go on a bike tour with a friend of Max's aunt (who actually went to the flower market with us), and that meant we had to get on the streets of Old Delhi before the craziness starts around 10 or 11.

Jake, a Swedish former reporter, took us around the Old Delhi route. We went through Chowdi Chok, a big marketplace, but all of the storefronts were closed, so it was very eerie. The families that lived around there were out, brushing there teeth and saying "Good morning" to the group of 8 white people riding by.

We soon passed the Red Fort, where I was the other day, and with the sun rising through the fog, it was very impressive (though it is more impressive from the outside than inside).

We continued our path down to the river (the Yamuna, one of the tributaries of the Ganges). Again, the sun, the seagulls getting fed, the couple people up and about and washing in it... picturesque, but if you see the state of the river, it is disgusting as well.

There is this film on top of the river, made of oil and grease and who knows what else. Tiny bubbles of what we guessed was methane come up to the surface and stay intact as they float ever so slowly downriver. The banks had multi-colored trash lapping with the pulse of the water. It was sad how far it had fallen from the clean water of a natural river.

Nearby we stopped for some chai, which is India's tea. It is surprisingly that same as the carac that I'm obsessed with at bandar back in Doha! And, though I've heard Moroccan tea when I was in Istanbul, I have no idea if that is the same or not. Regardless, I'm overjoyed to find my warm beverage of choice is available (and on the train too)! The only problem will be finding a time when I want a hot beverage.

We were starting to hit the busy times by the time we stopped for breakfast. We had a traditional breakfast meal of roti (like naan, so flat bread) and some goat something and some bean something. I'm going to have to start writing down these names so I can come back and look up recipes to cook all this deliciousness!

The last leg back to the bike shop was crazy. We were doing the typical Delhi driving: one hand on the bell, one hand out to move past people, and at least one prayer being muttered under your breath.

However, we all made it back, and Max and I dismounted to go see some German friends he met a few weeks ago along the coast. A tuktuk ride later, and we were at Red Fort and an entrance to Chowdi Chok.

Max's aunt has forged a good relationship with a jeweler down in this area, so we went by to see him. I bought some more rings (which were probably actually worth the price I paid, as opposed to that last ones).

Down the street was a Hindu temple (or possible Jain?) which we visited next. It was shoes and anything leather off, as well as washing our hands to respect the temple. The "guide" told us it was built in the 10th century (repeatedly), though the restorations are continuing, so who knows what is original. Along the walls were stories of two of their gurus, and upstairs was a rancorous music box with clanging cymbals and beating drums that we had him turn on.

One of my favorite things to see was the people praying who used rice or rice powder to draw shapes and offer food on the table in front of a shrine. The designs were intricate, and yet were transient.

As we were leaving the temple, one of the German guys got a water balloon that burst right on his head. A group of giggling children were lurking in the balcony above us, and "Happy Holi" was called after. Max got one when we crossed through the alley again to get pictures.

After stop to get some chapati (I think is what is it called... vegetables stuffed into some dough and fried flat like roti), Max and I then took the Delhi metro (much better than you'd expect) to a station to meet Arjay (the other driver) and go to a train station. We arrived at the New Delhi station, and waited through a huge line, to discover that the train left in an hour from the Old Delhi station.

Arjay drove us to that one next, we were started waiting in line. And waiting. And waiting.

Remember a few days ago when I talked about how at the embassy I just went up to the window and got served? After about 20 minutes of waiting (and 10 minutes until our train was due to leave), I did what I saw another woman do... walk to to the front of the line and just shove my money in the ticket window.

Max told me that the men in the line next to ours were very interested to see if it would work, and every time I turned around they kept encouraging me to just stick my hand in.

We managed to get the tickets (yay female privilege), then booked it to the platforms. We got there, asked a random fruit seller which platform to get on, than ran to that one. A station attendant then confirmed that it was the right train and not a minute too soon, we were aboard and headed for Jaipur.

The rest of the trip was fairly unexciting. We got on the train, sat in the sleeper class despite our cheap tickets, tried some potato something or another from a man selling it, was pretty hot and sweaty most of the way, took a nap in the upper bunks, then, when we finally got to Jaipur 5.5 hours later, helped some Czech girls find a hotel with us.

Dinner was a cycle rickshaw away at a nicer restaurant (because they were the only ones open) to have some thali. Thali is usually all-you-can-eat sauces dumped onto a huge pile of rice, where it turns into a free-for-all. This plate we just shared, and a banana lassi (yogurt drink) was a good end to another long day. But tomorrow is the Amber Fort, the Elephant Festival, and who knows what else (but I'm suspecting some more Holi fun will be creeping in as Monday gets closer).